Furniture Assembly Screws Confirmat & Wood Screws DIN 7997 | Factory Direct
Product Introduction
We've been making these screws for over 20 years. And here's what we learned: furniture screws aren't just smaller bolts — the substrate changes everything. Particleboard, MDF, hardwood, softwood. Each one grabs a thread differently. Get the screw wrong for the material, and you're looking at warranty claims six months later.
So we don't treat them all the same.
Take confirmat screws. The thread's deep and wide-spaced. Not by accident. It's because particleboard has no grain to bite into — you need surface area. Lots of it. That oversized flank spreads the clamping load across way more material than a standard wood screw ever could. On a production line assembling 500 RTA cabinets a day, that's the difference between joints that stay tight and joints that work loose by the time the customer builds it for the third time.
Then there's the euro screws. Blunt tip. Pozi drive. Full thread all the way up. They're designed for pre-drilled system holes — 5 mm or 8 mm, on 32 mm centers — which is the standard in European cabinetry. If you've ever watched a Phillips bit cam out of a screw head at 2,000 RPM on an assembly line, you know why Pozi matters. It just stays seated. Less downtime. Fewer chewed-up screw heads.
Every batch leaves our floor with a dimensional report and salt-spray test data attached. Optical sorting checks 100% of the pieces. We're IATF 16949 certified — that's automotive-grade process control applied to furniture fasteners. It might be overkill for a bookshelf. Until a customer returns one because the visible screw heads rusted after one humid summer.
Full Specification Table
|
Type |
DIN/Std |
Dia. (mm) |
Length (mm) |
Head |
Drive |
Material |
Finish |
|
Confirmat |
- |
M5–M7 |
30–70 |
CSK Flat |
Hex Soc. |
C1022 |
Zinc / Y.Zinc |
|
Confirmat |
- |
M6.3 |
40–100 |
CSK Flat |
Hex Soc. |
C1022 |
Nickel / Black |
|
Euro Screw |
DIN 7504 |
M3.5–M5 |
10–50 |
CSK Flat |
PZ2 |
C1022 |
Zinc Plated |
|
Wood Screw |
DIN 7997 |
M3–M6 |
10–120 |
CSK Flat |
PH/PZ |
C1022 |
Zinc / Y.Zinc |
|
Wood Screw |
DIN 7995 |
M3–M6 |
10–80 |
Oval CSK |
PH |
C1022 |
Black Oxide |
|
Wood Screw |
DIN 7996 |
M3–M6 |
10–80 |
Round |
PH |
C1022 |
Zinc Plated |
|
Cam Lock Bolt |
- |
M5–M6 |
30–50 |
Button |
Hex Soc. |
C1022 |
Nickel |
|
Chipboard Scr. |
- |
M3.5–M5 |
16–60 |
CSK Flat |
PH/PZ |
C1022 |
Zinc / Y.Zinc |
|
Confirmat SS |
- |
M5–M6.3 |
30–70 |
CSK Flat |
Hex Soc. |
A2-304 |
Passivated |
|
Wood Scr. SS |
DIN 7997 |
M3–M6 |
10–80 |
CSK Flat |
PH/PZ |
A2-304 |
Passivated |
Size Chart — Key Dimensions Reference
|
Nominal Dia. |
M3 |
M3.5 |
M4 |
M4.5 |
M5 |
M6 |
M6.3 |
M7 |
|
Thread OD |
2.9–3.1 |
3.4–3.6 |
3.9–4.1 |
4.4–4.6 |
4.9–5.1 |
5.8–6.0 |
6.1–6.3 |
6.8–7.0 |
|
Head Dia. (CSK) |
5.8–6.2 |
6.7–7.1 |
7.6–8.0 |
8.6–9.0 |
9.5–9.9 |
11.5–12.0 |
12.1–12.5 |
13.5–14.0 |
|
Pilot Hole (Ømm) |
2.0–2.5 |
2.3–2.8 |
2.8–3.3 |
3.2–3.7 |
3.5–4.0 |
4.2–4.8 |
4.5–5.0 |
5.0–5.5 |
|
Drive Size |
PH1 |
PH2 |
PH2 |
PH2 |
PH2 / TX20 |
PH3 / TX25 |
HEX 4mm |
HEX 4mm |
All dimensions in millimeters. Confirmat screws follow proprietary specs (no DIN number for these). DIN 7997 is the standard for wood screws. Pilot hole values are for softwood — for hardwood or MDF, go 0.3–0.5 mm smaller.
Stock lengths: 10 / 12 / 16 / 20 / 25 / 30 / 35 / 40 / 45 / 50 / 60 / 70 / 80 / 100 / 120 mm. Custom lengths available.
Applications
Here's where each screw type actually gets used. Not marketing fluff — these are the real assembly lines we ship into every week.
Flat-Pack / RTA Furniture
The biggest segment, and the most demanding on screw consistency.
- Confirmat screws run the primary structure — carcass panels, side-to-top connections. One screw every 150 mm on the line.
- Cam lock bolts + matching cams for the knock-down joints. We ship them as matched pairs so the eccentric throw lines up every time.
- Euro screws handle the hardware — drawer slides, hinges, shelf pins. The blunt tip stops them from wandering in the 5 mm system holes.
Kitchen & Bathroom Cabinetry
Moisture. Heat. Detergent splash. These screws earn their keep.
- SS304 wood screws under the sink. Zinc-plated screws will rust there in under a year. We've seen it. Use stainless or expect callbacks.
- Chipboard screws for the carcass. The coarse thread grabs the low-density core instead of just reaming out the hole like a fine-thread screw would.
- Yellow zinc confirmat screws where the hardware is visible. That golden tone blends with brass handles and hinges instead of standing out like a silver dot on walnut.
Office & Commercial Furniture
Heavier loads. Longer duty cycles. Different failure modes.
- M6–M8 confirmat screws for desk frames and workstation legs. We've had customers try M5 and the joints creak after six months of daily use.
- Black oxide finish on everything visible. Dark laminate desktops with shiny zinc screw heads look cheap. Black oxide disappears into the surface.
- Pre-sorted KD kits with printed manifests. Contract furniture brands doing government bids need traceability — we include lot numbers on every bag.
Bedroom & Living Room
Where aesthetics and assembly speed both matter.
- M4–M5 wood screws for drawer boxes. Small enough not to split 12 mm ply but long enough to hold when someone yanks a loaded drawer open.
- Oval countersunk heads (DIN 7995) on visible surfaces. They sit slightly proud with a rounded profile — decorative, intentional, not a defect.
- Pozi euro screws for wardrobe assembly. The bit stays engaged. That matters when you're driving 80 screws per unit and the line moves fast.
Why Work With Us?
Plenty of factories make screws. Here's what's different about ours.
|
What Sets Us Apart |
The Practical Difference |
|
We Own the Whole Line |
Wire drawing, cold heading, thread rolling, heat treat, plating — it's all under one roof. Why does that matter to you? When your order goes through three subcontractors, quality drifts. Nobody owns the final result. We do. And when something's off, there's no finger-pointing — we fix it because it happened on our floor. |
|
20 Years Shipping to 40+ Countries |
You pick up instincts after two decades. We know Middle Eastern buyers need thicker zinc for the humidity. We know Korean importers want K-REACH docs with every shipment. We know US furniture brands run lean on inventory and need 25-day lead times, not 60. This stuff isn't in a catalog — you learn it by shipping containers and handling problems. |
|
IATF 16949 — Car-Grade QC on Furniture Parts |
IATF 16949 is the automotive quality standard. It means statistical process control, PPAP documentation, failure mode analysis. For screws that go into a bookshelf, that might sound excessive. But it means our defect rate runs in parts per million, not percent. Your assembly line doesn't stop because a batch of M6 screws has undersized hex sockets. |
|
100% Optical Sort, Every Piece |
We don't do sample inspection. Every screw passes through optical sorting cameras that check diameter, length, head geometry, and thread form. The machine kicks out anything outside tolerance. You get a dimensional report with the shipment. If you need PPAP Level 3, we can do that too. |
|
Kitting — We Ship What Goes in the Box |
For KD furniture brands, screws aren't a bulk commodity. They're a kit. M6 confirmat x 12, cam bolts x 8, euro screws x 16, all in one bag with your logo and a barcode. We weigh-check and optical-count every kit before sealing. Your customer opens the flat-pack box, finds exactly what they expect, and doesn't call your support line. |
|
Samples in 48 Hours, Custom Tooling in 15 Days |
Standard samples ship free within two days. Need a custom head marking? Different recess? Non-standard plating color? We'll cut tooling and have production samples in your hands in about two weeks. NDA protection on your proprietary designs is standard — we don't shop your parts around to other buyers. |
Real Problems We've Fixed
These aren't hypothetical. Every one of these came from a customer who was losing money before they called us.
Problem #1: Screws keep stripping on the assembly line.
What's actually going on: The Phillips recess was poorly formed. Or the heat treatment left the head too soft. Sometimes both. Driver bit spins, head rounds out, line stops.
How we fixed it: We machine our punch tooling on CNC, not by hand. The recess geometry is dead consistent. Heat treat targets HRC 28–38 — hard enough the driver doesn't chew through it, soft enough the head doesn't snap off at torque. And if your line uses pneumatic drivers, switch to Pozi drive. PZ2 resists cam-out about 40% better than Phillips at the speeds you're running. We stock both.
Problem #2: Rust spots. Three months in, the customer wants a refund.
What's actually going on: Cheap zinc. Under 5 microns, probably not passivated properly. Or carbon steel spec'd for a bathroom cabinet — that's not a material problem, that's a spec problem.
How we fixed it: We stock three corrosion tiers so you pick the right one. Standard zinc: 8–12 microns, good for indoor furniture in dry climates. Yellow zinc: 12–15 microns with a thicker chromate layer, handles kitchen humidity fine. Stainless A2-304: 200+ hours salt spray, for bathrooms, coastal homes, outdoor-adjacent. The price jumps about 2–3× between zinc and stainless. Most of our customers use stainless just on the moisture-exposed assemblies — under sink, near dishwasher — and zinc everywhere else.
Problem #3: Thread strips out of the particleboard. Joint works loose.
What's actually going on: Standard wood screws in engineered wood. The thread pitch is too fine — it's cutting individual channels instead of grabbing a big chunk of material. Plus the pilot hole was probably drilled at full diameter instead of 85% of the minor thread diameter.
How we fixed it: Confirmat screws. That's the fix. Deep, widely-spaced thread that displaces material outward instead of cutting through it. You get about 60% more pull-out resistance in particleboard compared to a same-length wood screw. We'll send you the pilot hole chart for every diameter we stock. Use it. A correctly sized pilot hole is the difference between holding 80 kg and pulling out at 30 kg.
Problem #4: Hardware bags are wrong. Missing screws, wrong quantities, angry customers.
What's actually going on: Manual counting. Someone on the packing line is counting screws by hand for eight hours a day. Mistakes happen. Usually around 3 PM.
How we fixed it: We pre-sort and kit everything. Each bag goes through a weight check first, then an optical counter for verification. If the count is off by even one screw, the line stops and the bag gets reworked. Your logo on the bag, barcode with the SKU, bilingual instructions inside if you want them. The kit drops straight into your flat-pack carton — no repacking, no recounting, no customer service emails about missing hardware.
Problem #5: Screw heads sit proud of the panel surface.
What's actually going on: Countersink angle doesn't match the screw head. Or there's a burr under the head from worn tooling. Or the head diameter varies too much from piece to piece.
How we fixed it: All our countersunk screws use a 90° underside angle, burr-free. Head diameter tolerance is ±0.2 mm. That's tight enough that if your panel shop is using a matching 90° countersink bit, the heads seat flush. Every time. We'll include the recommended countersink bit spec with your first order so your production team has the exact match.
FAQ:
Q1: Confirmat screws vs wood screws — which one for furniture?
Depends what you're screwing into. Solid wood? DIN 7997 wood screws work fine. Particleboard or MDF? That's confirmat territory. The short version: wood screws rely on grain structure for grip. Particleboard has no grain — it's compressed chips and resin. A wood screw cuts a neat little channel through it. A confirmat screw pushes material outward and locks into a much bigger zone. We've tested this. Same diameter, same length, same panel — the confirmat holds about 50–60% more before pulling out. If you're doing RTA furniture at production volumes, it's not really a choice. Use confirmat.
Q2: My screws keep stripping in particleboard. What am I doing wrong?
Probably three things. One, you're using wood screws in particleboard and the thread's too fine. Two, the pilot hole is too big — you want about 85–90% of the screw's minor diameter, not a match-fit. Three, you're over-torquing. MDF needs about 2–3 Nm; particleboard can handle 3–4 Nm before the thread starts tearing out. If you don't have torque-limited drivers on your line, get them. It's cheaper than returns. And if you want to go further, we can pre-apply a low-friction coating that drops drive torque by about 25%. Less force to seat the screw means less chance of stripping the hole.
Q3: What's the deal with euro screws?
They're the workhorse of European-style cabinetry. Blunt tip — that's on purpose, because they go into pre-drilled 5 mm or 8 mm holes on a 32 mm grid pattern. Pozi drive instead of Phillips, which matters when you're running an electric driver at speed. Fully threaded shank so the two panels pull tight together — no gap, no 'bridging' like you sometimes get with partial-thread wood screws. If your furniture uses the 32 mm system (and most cabinet hardware does), euro screws are what the holes were designed for.
Q4: What size screw for 15 mm MDF panels?
M6 or M6.3 confirmat, 40–50 mm long. You want the screw to go into the receiving panel at least twice its diameter deep. For thinner panels — drawer bottoms, back panels, that kind of thing — drop to M4 or M5 at 16–25 mm. Hinges and drawer slides on 15 mm panels: M3.5 euro screws, 12–16 mm, so you don't break through the face. If you're not sure, send us your panel specs and we'll work up a full fastening schedule. Free. Takes about a day.
Q5: Do I really need stainless steel screws?
Not everywhere. But in the right places, absolutely. For normal indoor furniture in a climate-controlled house, good zinc plating at 8–12 microns holds up fine. Splurge on stainless for three situations: bathroom and kitchen cabinetry (steam, detergent, damp towels), outdoor or garden furniture (rain, dew, UV breaking down plating faster), and coastal homes (salt in the air corrodes zinc plating like crazy, even indoors). We tell our customers: stainless for the wet zones, zinc for the rest. Saves money and stops the returns.
Q6: How do cam locks actually work?
The bolt screws into one panel first. The cam — that disc-shaped nut — sits in a drilled hole in the edge of the mating panel. When you turn the cam with a screwdriver, the channel inside it is eccentric, so it pulls the bolt head toward the center of the cam as it rotates. That draws the two panels tight. No glue. You can take it apart and reassemble it. That's the whole point of flat-pack. Our kits are tested for 500+ cycles without loosening. After about cycle 300, you might feel a tiny bit of play. By cycle 500, it's still holding — just not quite as snug as the first assembly.
Q7: Can you do custom packaging with our logo? (캣 브랜드 포장 가능한가요?)
Yeah, we do this all the time. Custom-printed polybags or boxes. Your logo, the barcode, color-coded labels so the end customer knows which screw is which without reading a manual. Bilingual instructions if you need them — English/Korean, English/Japanese, English/Arabic, whatever your market is. We check every kit by weight and optical count before sealing. Minimum is 5,000 kits per SKU, turnaround about 15–20 days from when you approve the artwork. For Korean-market brands, we include K-REACH documentation with the shipment — you'll need it for customs clearance under FTA terms.